03 April 2014

Going Solo

(I’ve been having so much fun backpacking that I’ve almost forgotten that I’m supposed to go sailing sometime soon. I do hope I enjoy myself as much when I finally set out to sea.)

This past month I have been continually surprized at how many of the people I’ve met are traveling on their own. About half of them. Which is huge. (The other half seems equally split into couples and larger groups.)

Traveling solo definitely has some advantages. I can do, any day, exactly what I want to. I don’t have to discuss, or negotiate, or compromise, or come to consensus with anyone else. I can do just whatever tickles my fancy. And, because I am on my own, I meet and talk to a lot of people. When Alexander and I went to Denmark last summer to bike we met almost no one because we were always with each other. Here, by myself, I chat with many other backpackers while in hostels, always join anyone else who is by themselves at meals, and look for the most interesting person to sit with on every bus, and, consequently, end up having lots of good discussions. I spend far more time with other travelers than with locals, which, perhaps, is a shame, though understandable as I have somehow become locked into the tourist circuit and stay always in hostels (or my tent) and as I still speak NO Spanish. Those I do talk to, however, tend to be well-educated, well-travelled, well-read, and, frequently, thought-provoking, enlightening, or inspiring.

Other times, however, traveling solo is almost lonely. I spend a day with three couples who have been friends forever and are off on their annual month-long summer trip together. This leaves me feeling both a hint of envy and a twinge of regret that I, myself, am just too autistic to maintain a stable relationship with one other person let alone five. And, even though I have come to accept my lot in life, I feel just a little bit lonely and decide to do another multi-day hike so that I will be too tired to be maudlin. But before I can get to that I spend another day with a group of seven unrelated people who are on a Tucan Tour who all appear very happy to be traveling together and I think, ‘I could do that (well, if I could afford it)’. But then almost before I’ve finished that thought, the very next day in other words, I spend a few hours with a woman my age who is on a GAP Tour, which she joined precisely because she didn’t want to be on her own, but it isn’t working out for her as the group split up into 3 cliques and even though she is welcome in all of them she doesn’t fit in to any of them and so she, being alone in a group, is far lonelier even than me.

It is all a mess so I do do my second multi-day hike, again awesome beyond words, exhaust myself, and then go back to traveling, more or less happily, on my own. I meet a lovely young British doctor on a 24 hour bus ride and we decide to share a room in a hostel together for a few days and then I go off bird watching, of all things, with another Brit. (We might even have ended up spending several days bird watching together if Lipsticktoo had not been a smart ass and rivalled his 10K camera!)

Perhaps part of the attraction of crewing, for me, is that simply through the odd social structure of life on a boat - shared proximity and isolation - almost intimate relationships with the others are effectively forced upon you all.

I wonder how many of the other solo travelers I have met, most of whom, like me, are traveling for months on end, have solo lives at home. Some do not. Theresa, who has just completed her PhD and is on a several month long celebratory vacation, lives with a large extended family and has a fiancé back home planning their wedding. She is definitely not lonely at home. Linda on the other hand, the GAP woman, who also, incidentally, has a PhD, lives alone with three cats, and may well be.

Having been ditched by the bird-watcher I stop in the revolving restaurant at the top of the mountain and have a fantastic European-style hot chocolate (by myself) and decide that, lonely or not, I have nothing, at all, to complain about in life at the moment. It is, without question, all good.


Another condor photo taken while out with the Brit...



... and the snap shot that miffed him!